But for its near flawless execution, Ottolenghi might be a mediocre medley of modern restauranteering. It has a minimalist white interior. It has a contemporary Euro-Med menu. It even has an innovative hybrid retail format… but the proof is in the pudding, and Ottolenghi has what is quite frankly an indecent selection of cakes and pastries at its bakery counter. If plain white is a touch arrogant, it’s all the more so when the staff are decked out in black for the full monochrome experience. You need to be pretty confident in your kitchen to decide you don’t need décor to generate some atmosphere, but Ottolenghi is justifiably white, serving superb food in abundance. The genre might not be new and clever, but the use of unusual flavour and texture combinations along with top ingredients make for food with a refined, expert feel that certainly is.
Price: £40pp. 287 Upper St, N1 2TZ. Tel: 020 7288 1454. Web: www.ottolenghi.co.uk